What is a moisturiser?
A moisturiser is a cream, lotion, or oil that is applied to the skin at the end of a skincare routine.
What is a moisturiser supposed to do?
The primary job of a moisturiser is to lock in moisture by creating a seal on the surface of the skin to stop trans epidermal water loss (TEWL), which means water evaporating from the skin. Moisturising and hydration are two very different things. Hydration is putting water into the skin and moisturising keeps that water in.
On the surface of our skin, we have a layer called our Lipid barrier. Over time this becomes damaged by sun exposure, acne, free radicals etc. When the barrier is damaged it means we get TEWL. People with dehydrated skin generally have a damaged lipid barrier. The lipid barrier is made up of Ceramides (skin cells), Cholesterol and free fatty acids. So, to replenish your natural barrier, using a product containing any of these ingredients, will help.
How should I apply moisturiser?
The most common way is to rub the moisture into the face and neck, but the best way is to pat it gently into the skin so you’re not pulling at the skin too much as this can cause premature ageing.
What type’s of moisturisers are there?
There are three types of moisturisers, Occlusives, Emollients and Humectants. Lotions and potions can be made up of one of these or a combination.
Occlusives sit on the top layer of skin and form a barrier, stopping water from escaping.
Commonly known Occlusives:
Petroleum jelly
Beeswax
Olive oil
Silicones
Emollients sink into the layers of the skin and sit in-between the skin cells which leaves your skin feeling smooth.
Commonly known Emollients:
Vegetable oils
Shea butter
Jojoba
Silicone
Fatty acid
Humectants attract and hold water, which keeps the skin Hydrated.
Commonly known Humectants:
Hyaluronic acid
Tremella mushroom
Collagen
Amino acids
In my opinion, the perfect moisturiser will be made up using a concoction of all three of these. Depending on the ratio will mean a different consistency.
Ageing
The myth is that by applying collagen topically will somehow increase the amount of collagen we naturally have. The reason collagen is so highly promoted it because it is excellent at retaining water that keeps the skin hydrated, which keeps us looking young. It’s all about moisture guys!
Hyaluronic acid is popular for the same reason, we naturally have it in our connective tissue and it can hold 1000 x its weight in water. The key to staying young is staying hydrated.
Do I need to moisturise?
YES, if there is one thing you should be doing to your skin it is moisturising.
What ingredients do you avoid?
Many people try to avoid glycerin but this is wrong. If anything, you should look for a moisturiser containing glycerin because this helps to create a seal which stops TEWL.
How much should I be looking to pay?
Anywhere from £10 to £500. It all depends on your budget but you don’t have to spend your life savings to get a good moisturiser!